Keith A. Sverdrup,
University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee Alyn C. Duxbury,
University of Washington Alison B. Duxbury,
Seattle Community College
ISBN: 0072472804 Copyright year: 2002
Expanded Table of Contents
Preface x
Guided Tour xiv
prologue
The History of Oceanography
The Early Times 2
The Middle Ages 4
Box: Marine Archaeology 6
Voyages of Discovery 8
The Beginnings of Earth Science 10
The Importance of Charts and Navigational Information 10
Ocean Science Begins 13
The Challenger Expedition 15
Oceanography as Science 15
U.S. Oceanography in the Twentieth Century 18
Box: Satellite Oceanography 22
Oceanography of the Recent Past, Present, and the Future 24
Summary 26
chapter 1
The Water Planet
1.1 Beginnings 29
Box: Origin of the Oceans 32
1.2 Age and Time 34
1.3 Shape of the Earth 38
1.4 Location Systems 38
1.5 Modern Navigational Techniques 42
1.6 Earth: The Water Planet 45
Summary 51
chapter 2
Plate Tectonics
2.1 Interior of the Earth 54
2.2 Lithosphere and Asthenosphere 57
2.3 Movement of the Continents 59
2.4 Plate Tectonics 71
2.5 Motion of the Plates 79
Box: Listening to Seafloor Spreading 80
2.6 History of the Continents 83
2.7 Research Projects and Plans 87
Box: Undersea Robotic Technology 88
Box: Recovery of Black Smokers 92
Summary 95
chapter 3
The Sea Floor and Its Sediments
3.1 Measuring the Depths 99
3.2 Bathymetry of the Sea Floor 101
Box: Bathymetrics 108
3.3 Sediments 110
3.4 Seabed Resources 124
Summary 128
chapter 4
The Physical Properties of Water
4.1 The Water Molecule 132
4.2 Temperature and Heat 134
4.3 Changes of State 135
4.4 Heat Capacity 136
4.5 Cohesion, Surface Tension, and Viscosity 137
4.6 Density 137
4.7 Dissolving Ability 139
4.8 Transmission of Energy 139
Box: Acoustic Thermometry of Ocean Climate 146
4.9 Ice and Fog 147
Box: Green Icebergs 153
Summary 154
chapter 5
The Chemistry of Seawater
5.1 The pH of Seawater 157
5.2 Salts 158
5.3 Gases 164
5.4 Other Substances 166
Box: Messages in Polar Ice 168
5.5 Practical Considerations: Salt and Water 170
Summary 172
chapter 6
The Structure and Motion of the Atmosphere
6.1 Heating and Cooling the Earth's Surface 176
6.2 The Atmosphere 181
6.3 Greenhouse Gases 182
6.4 The Role of Sulfur Compounds 186
6.5 The Atmosphere in Motion 186
Box: Ship Emissions 189
6.6 Modifying the Wind Bands 193
Box: Clouds and Climate 194
6.7 Hurricanes 199
6.8 El Niño 200
6.9 Practical Considerations: Storm Tides and Storm Surges 204
Summary 206
chapter 7
Circulation and Ocean Structure
7.1 Density Structure 209
7.2 Upwelling and Downwelling 212
7.3 The Layered Oceans 213
Box: Arctic Ocean Studies 216
7.4 Measurement Techniques 219
7.5 Practical Considerations: Ocean Thermal Energy Conversion 220
Box: Ocean Gliders 222
Summary 224
chapter 8
The Currents
8.1 Surface Currents 228
8.2 Wind-Driven Ocean Currents 230
8.3 Current Flow 232
8.4 Eddies 233
8.5 Convergence and Divergence 234
Box: Ocean Drifters 236
8.6 Changing Circulation Patterns 239
8.7 Measuring the Currents 243
8.8 Practical Considerations: Energy from the Currents 245
Summary 245
chapter 9
The Waves
9.1 How a Wave Begins 248
9.2 Anatomy of a Wave 249
9.3 Wave Motion 249
9.4 Wave Speed 250
9.5 Deep-Water Waves 250
9.6 Wave Height 252
9.7 Shallow-Water Waves 256
9.8 The Surf Zone 260
9.9 Tsunamis 262
Box: Tsunami Warning Systems 264
9.10 Internal Waves 266
9.11 Standing Waves 267
9.12 Practical Considerations: Energy from Waves 269
Summary 271
Going to Sea 273
chapter 10
The Tides
10.1 Tide Patterns 278
10.2 Tide Levels 278
10.3 Tidal Currents 278
10.4 Equilibrium Tidal Theory 279
10.5 Dynamic Tidal Analysis 285
10.6 Tidal Bores 289
10.7 Predicting Tides and Tidal Currents 290
Box: Measuring Tides from Space 291
10.8 Practical Considerations: Energy from Tides 294
Summary 296
chapter 11
Coasts, Beaches, and Estuaries
11.1 Major Zones 300
11.2 Types of Coasts 302
11.3 Anatomy of a Beach 309
11.4 Beach Dynamics 310
11.5 Beach Types 314
11.6 Modifying Beaches 315
Box: National Marine Sanctuaries 318
11.7 Estuaries 322
11.8 High Evaporation Rates 325
Box: Rising Sea Level 326
11.9 Flushing Time 328
11.10 Practical Considerations: Case Histories 328
Summary 332
chapter 12
Environmental Issues and Concerns
12.1 Water and Sediment Quality 336
12.2 Gulf of Mexico Dead Zone 339
12.3 Plastic Trash 341
12.4 Ocean Waste Management Proposals 341
12.5 Oil Spills 343
12.6 Marine Wetlands 347
Box: Spartina: Valuable and Productive or Invasive and Destructive? 348
12.7 Biological Invaders 350
12.8 Overfishing and Incidental Catch 352
12.9 Afterthoughts 354
Summary 355
chapter 13
The Living Ocean
13.1 Ocean Biology 358
13.2 Groups of Organisms 358
13.3 Environmental Zones 360
13.4 Facts of Ocean Life 360
13.5 Bottom Environments 367
13.6 Close Associations 367
13.7 Barriers and Boundaries 368
13.8 Practical Considerations: Modification and Mitigation 368
Box: Biodiversity in the Oceans 369
Summary 370
chapter 14
Production and Life
14.1 Primary Production 373
14.2 Controls on Primary Production 374
14.3 Global Primary Productivity 378
14.4 Measuring Primary Productivity 379
14.5 Total Production 381
Box: The Antarctic Food Web 384
14.6 Practical Considerations: Human Concerns 387
Box: CalCOFI—Fifty Years of Coastal Ocean Data 388
Summary 389
chapter 15
The Plankton: Drifters of the Open Ocean
15.1 Kinds of Plankton 393
15.2 Bacteria 404
15.3 Viruses 405
15.4 Classification Summary of the Plankton 405
15.5 Sampling the Plankton 406
Box: Extremophiles 407
15.6 Practical Considerations: Marine Toxins 408
Box: Rapid Detection of Algal Blooms 410
Summary 412
17.1 Algae and Plants 448
17.2 Animals 451
17.3 Classification Summary of the Benthos 460
Box: Deep-Sea Ice Worms 462
17.4 Tropical Coral Reefs 462
17.5 High-Energy Environments 467
17.6 Deep-Ocean Chemosynthetic Communities 468
17.7 Sampling the Benthos 469
17.8 Practical Considerations: Harvesting the Benthos 469
Box: Genetic Manipulation of Fish and Shellfish 475
Summary 476
Appendix A Scientific (or Exponential) Notation 478
Appendix B SI Units 479
Appendix C Equations and Quantitative Relationships 482
Glossary 485
Credits 497
Index 501
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2002 McGraw-Hill Higher Education